This fall there has been an abundance of posts and news stories about overcrowding in Great Smoky Mountain National Park. This has been a growing trend at the most visited national park in the nation and was bolstered by people weary of COVID quarantine. If one knows where to look and is not adverse to rugged hiking, tranquil spots are still to be found. I combined a section of the AT with the Lost Cove Trail and a section of the Lake Shore Trail. This twelve mile look took place in the Southwestern section of the park and I only encountered three other hikers on my journey.
To reach the trailhead, I drove over the Fontana Dam and a short distance later found the end of the road. Shuckstack Fire Tower is 3+ miles up the Appalachian Trail from this trailhead. I love hiking in all seasons because each has it's own special charm. One of the benefits of hiking in late fall and winter is that you will have great views through the bare trees. As I wound up the steep miles on the AT, I could stop and view the lake. I reflected on the progress both the sun and I were making rising up above it. The reflection time also gave me a chance to breathe and acclimate my lungs to the strenuous climb. I am a big proponent of breathing.
After a couple of miles, the incline moderates and as I continued around the side of Little Shuckstack I caught glimpses of the tower through the trees. As I hiked along the saddle between the peaks, the tower seemed to be dead ahead, The trail, however, runs along the opposite side of the mountain making it a much longer path. The rewards of the roundabout route were immense. Along the "front" side of Shuckstack, the trail follows a ridge that had incredible views. As the trail started up again, I rounded a bend expecting to see an incline heading to the summit. Although the trail did in fact go up as I thought, I also found myself face to face with a buck. We stood still and admired each other until he decided to put some distance between us. 
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Shuckstack Firetower is one of many abandoned towers in the Appalachians that were used for spotting fires. They were phased out when newer technology proved more efficient. Apparently, most fires these days are reported by folks with cell phones. There are remnants of the tiny cabin that served as home for months at a time for the watchers. This tower was built in 1934 and is eighty feet high. It is now a cherished hiking destination. The top affords incredible 360 degree views of that remote section of mountains and Fontana Lake.
Waiting for the right conditions was part of my planning for this hike. These towers are not maintained (this one is missing a section of hand rail) and climbing them is daunting under the best circumstances. I made certain it was not a windy day. The steps themselves appeared dependable. The floor of the cab at the top may have been sketchy but it had some extra boards over one section. The most dangerous aspect I discovered was the metal frame that formed the doorway in the floor that the steps went to. The angle iron crossbar that crossed the stairs was less than 5'11". I ascertained that by using my head which is 5'11" off the ground. Anyway the views were stunning.
Leaving the tower, I continue on the AT for a short distance to Sassafras Gap. A left turn here goes to twenty mile. I turn right and head down the Lost Cove Trail. And by down, I mean precipitously steep downward on a trail covered in dry leaves and acorns. After about a mile, I crossed Lost Cove Creek for the first time. It was an easy rock hop at this point. Over the course of the next 1 1/2 miles, the descent diminishes and follows the course of the creek. As the creek continues it's journey, there are beautiful small cascades and rock formations. When the creek begins a more dramatic drop, though, the trail runs on a high bank with a cloak of rhododendron obscuring the views. Without risking life and limb, I could only catch tantalizing glimpses of small waterfalls.
Lost Cove Trail crosses the creek about 86 times in the next 1+ mile (It may be less. I lost count). The easy rock hop from the first crossing turn to strategic rock hops to outright wet crossings. I was aware of that before hand so I sucked it up and made it through. Fortunately, the day had warmed up into the sixties. The water was not so accommodating
The fifth and last wet crossing was the most challenging but was also quite scenic. 
Just after that, Lost Cove Trail ends at the Lakeshore trail. A left here would take me to the Hazel Creek area and eventually to Bryson City if I hiked another 19 miles. I chose a right turn for the 5+ mile return to the car. Contrary to what one would expect from the name, the Lakeshore trail is often far from the lake. It winds it's way up and down and in and out of the various coves that surround the lake. The first couple of miles provided few glimpses of the lake. About halfway back to the trailhead, the trail makes it's closest approach to the lake and provides wonderful views.
This area of the Smokies was home for several small towns prior to the formation of Fontana Lake. Proctor was a thriving community just a few miles north of where I hiked. throughout the length of Lakeshore trail, remnants of the past can be found. One of the more intriguing is a short stretch about 2 miles before the trailhead that is home to several abandoned cars. I am always intrigued by old vehicles found deep in forests. I have heard a story about the famous car remnants on Middle Prong. I suspect it's not the true story but it's a good one. I would love to know the story of these old cars.
After more ups and downs, I found found myself back at the trailhead ready for a celebratory iced coffee.
The fire towers are a legacy of the bygone era and many of them are now just gone. Others are closed or endangered due to lack of maintenance. Rich Mountain fire tower was recently renovated after a closure through a collaboration of the AT conservancy and USFS. To learn more about the fire towers of the region, you can read Hiking North Carolina's Lookout Towers by Peter Barr.
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