Giving Thanks: Indian Creek Loop with 3 cemeteries

 

   Of the "gateway" communities for Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Bryson City is the one that I adore. Personally, I find Pigeon Forge, Gatlinburg, Cherokee, and Maggie Valley being full of congestion, commercialism and kitsch. Bryson City, on the other hand, has retained it's small  southern town charm while still hosting businesses that cater to visitors to the Smokies. Perhaps the reason is that Bryson City does not attract the drive-through tourist. The roads into the national park from Bryson City go a short distance in and terminate. To enjoy the park, people must exit their cars and explore by hiking or backpacking, horseback riding, even tubing in Deep Creek. Additionally, the town  is home to the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad. Although it does not quite enter the park, riders can enjoy a scenic trip through the Nantahala Gorge. 

   I tried to arrive for my Thanksgiving morning hike for sunrise but the area was thickly blanketed in fog. This made for a perfect contemplative start as I felt totally isolated. I heard no sound other than the drips of the trees shaking off yesterday's rain and the occasional echo of woodpeckers tapping out their breakfast request. I began on the Thomas Divide trail which is an old road bed in this section. A scant 100 yards up the trail, I veered off to pay my respects to the first of three cemeteries I visited on this hike. My topo map identifies it as Wiggins Cemetery but I know there is also a cemetery for several of the Wiggins Children off of Deep Creek Trail. The trail ascends steadily, gaining about 1300 feet in 3 miles along the ridge that serves as the de facto park boundary between Deep Creek and Cherokee. The only other soul I saw was an intrepid spider who had managed to construct a big web across the wide trail. 

   At 3.2 miles, the Thomas Divide trail turns right on a single track that will continue up to a high point on Newfound Gap Road. The old roadbed becomes the Indian Creek Motor Trail and I wondered how long it had been since cars were allowed to travel it. The trail descends steeply and crosses several tributaries that were mere trickles on this day. As I progressed into the valley, though, the roar of the creeks below grew and I began to wonder if a wet crossing was in my future. I have hiked the Indian Creek trail previously and knew that it had bridges being also another old roadbed. Looking at my topo I noticed that I would be on Deeplow Gap for about half a mile prior to that trail and it appeared to cross the creek several times. Well, not knowing is part of the adventure. Indian Creek Motor Trail ended at Deeplow Gap trail. As before, to the right Deeplow gap went up on a single track to eventually meet Mingus Creek trail. Continuing bearing left on the old roadbed, I was now on the Deeplow Gap Trail which followed along the scenic cascades of Geroges Branch. With still dry feet, I arrived at the Indian Creek Trail. 

    This area was originally inhabited by the Cherokee (Aniyvwiyaʔi). As European settlers began to make contact and infringe on their land. The Cherokee made strides to "Europeanize" to be accepted. They developed a written language, many adopted Christianity, they developed democratic forms of governance, built and lived in houses and some even owned slaves. These efforts did not protect them. When whites continued to invade their federally recognized land for gold and farmland, rather than enforce the treaties they signed, Andrew Jackson had the people moved west to Oklahoma on what became known as the "Trail of Tears." This history and how the Eastern Band of Cherokee managed to remain can be read about in Charles Frazier's excellent fictionalized fact novel "Thirteen Moons" 

  

    

   A short distance up Indian Creek trail, I veered off to the left on a trail that took me up to the intriguing Queen/Styles cemetery. One of the odd sights there was the strangest tombstone I had ever come across. The writing protrudes and is backwards. I queried Hiking the Smokies fb page and was quickly answered by an amazing blog post detailing it. I share the link here so you can read it and also want to acknowledge some more history of the area I will write about comes from this source. 

Reflections of Olde Swain: Stories of Stone

   Leaving the cemetery, I returned to my journey down Indian Creek Trail and began to wonder about the settlers who lived here after the Cherokee removal. Approximately 30 families made their homes there. They had a schoolhouse and church (Baptist, of course)). At one spot, I stopped to view land that obviously had been cleared for a farmstead and wondered what there life was like and what they might have been doing on a Thanksgiving day around 1900. (Turns out that area was home to Alfred and Louisa Parris who importantly had a grist mill on their property). As I was lost in my reveries, I heard a snort and the sound of a running animal about 10 feet behind me. I turned to see a large deer that had been right off the other side of the road putting some distance between us. 

   A short while later, I arrived at the short side trail to the right that led to Laney Cemetery. This was either the oldest or poorest of the three cemeteries. There was only one true headstone with an inscription. The majority of graves were marked by anonymous fieldstones. I made my way back down the side path and turning back onto Indian Creek Trail, I was met by an adorable young buck. I stood still taking pictures and he was undaunted, curious enough to move closer to me before sauntering off. 

   I had a short distance to reach Stone Pile Gap trail that would take me back up to Thomas Divide Trail. I once again began to wonder if I was facing a wet crossing, particularly since Indian Creek was well-fed and wide by this point. Relief spread through me like sunshine as a spotted a picturesque log bridge crossing it. I also noticed the trail sign indicated it was  mile up to Thomas Divide Trail and remembered the sign up on the ridge saying the trail was 0.9 miles. Sure is funny how those trails are always longer going up then when going down.

   The first half of Stone Pile Gap trail, was accompanied by a small tributary that ran along it and often concurrently. I guess I was not destined to escape with dry feet. The trail turns to the left to leave the water and becomes a pastoral track lined with large pine needles that traversed some long switchbacks through a grove of laurel. The trail then winds around some drainages prior to ending at the Thomas Divide Trail. An easy 1.1 mile back down to the trailhead and a bright, sunny day completed my 10.5 mile pre-emptive calorie burning hike. Then, it was home to listen to Alice's Restaurant while cooking the best Thanksgiving dinner ever. 

Far From The Maddening Crowd: Shuckstack Loop in GSMNP

   This fall there has been an abundance of posts and news stories about overcrowding in Great Smoky Mountain National Park. This has been a growing trend at the most visited national park in the nation and was bolstered by people weary of COVID quarantine. If one knows where to look and is not adverse to rugged hiking, tranquil spots are still  to be found. I combined a section of the AT with the Lost Cove Trail and a section of the Lake Shore Trail. This twelve mile look took place in the Southwestern section of the park and I only encountered three other hikers on my journey.

   To reach the trailhead, I drove over the Fontana Dam and a short distance later found the end of the road. Shuckstack Fire Tower is 3+ miles up the Appalachian Trail from this trailhead. I love hiking in all seasons because each has it's own special charm. One of the benefits of hiking in late fall and winter is that you will have great views through the bare trees. As I wound up the steep miles on the AT, I could stop and view the lake. I reflected on the progress both the sun and I were making rising up above it. The reflection time also gave me a chance to breathe and acclimate my lungs to the strenuous climb. I am a big proponent of breathing.

   After a couple of miles, the incline moderates and as I continued around the side of Little Shuckstack I caught glimpses of the tower through the trees. As I hiked along the saddle between the peaks, the tower seemed to be dead ahead, The trail, however, runs along the opposite side of the mountain making it a much longer path. The rewards of the roundabout route were immense. Along the "front" side of Shuckstack, the trail follows a ridge that had incredible views. As the trail started up again, I rounded a bend expecting to see an incline heading to the summit. Although the trail did in fact go up as I thought, I also found myself face to face with a buck. We stood still and admired each other until he decided to put some distance between us. 

   Shuckstack Firetower is one of many abandoned towers in the Appalachians that were used for spotting fires. They were phased out when newer technology proved more efficient. Apparently, most fires these days are reported by folks with cell phones. There are remnants of the tiny cabin that served as home for months at a time for the watchers. This tower was built in 1934 and is eighty feet high. It is now a cherished hiking destination. The top affords incredible 360 degree views of that remote section of mountains and Fontana Lake.

   Waiting for the right conditions was part of my planning for this hike. These towers are not maintained (this one is missing a section of hand rail) and climbing them is daunting under the best circumstances. I made certain it was not a windy day. The steps themselves appeared dependable. The floor of the cab at the top may have been sketchy but it had some extra boards over one section. The most dangerous aspect I discovered was the metal frame that formed the doorway in the floor that the steps went to. The angle iron crossbar that crossed the stairs was less than 5'11". I ascertained that by using my head which is 5'11" off the ground. Anyway the views were stunning.

   Leaving the tower, I continue on the AT for a short distance to Sassafras Gap. A left turn here goes to twenty mile. I  turn right and head down the Lost Cove Trail. And by down, I mean precipitously steep downward on a trail covered in dry leaves and acorns. After about a mile, I crossed Lost Cove Creek for the first time. It was an easy rock hop at this point. Over the course of the next 1 1/2 miles, the descent diminishes and follows the course of the creek. As the creek continues it's journey, there are beautiful small cascades and rock formations. When the creek begins a more dramatic drop, though, the trail runs on a high bank with a cloak of rhododendron obscuring the views. Without risking life and limb, I could only catch tantalizing glimpses of small waterfalls. 

    Lost Cove Trail crosses the creek about 86 times in the next 1+ mile (It may be less. I lost count). The easy rock hop from the first crossing turn to strategic rock hops to outright wet crossings. I was aware of that before hand so I sucked it up and made it through. Fortunately, the day had warmed up into the sixties. The water was not so accommodating

   The fifth and last wet crossing was the most challenging but was also quite scenic. 

 

   Just after that, Lost Cove Trail ends at the Lakeshore trail. A left here would take me to the Hazel Creek area and eventually to Bryson City if I hiked another 19 miles. I chose a right turn for the 5+ mile return to the car. Contrary to what one would expect from the name, the Lakeshore trail is often far from the lake. It winds it's way up and down and in and out of the various coves that surround the lake. The first couple of miles provided few glimpses of the lake. About halfway back to the trailhead, the trail makes it's closest approach to the lake and provides wonderful views. 

   This area of the Smokies was home for several small towns prior to the formation of Fontana Lake. Proctor was a thriving community just a few miles north of where I hiked. throughout the length of Lakeshore trail, remnants of the past can be found. One of the more intriguing is a short stretch about 2 miles before the trailhead that is home to several abandoned cars. I am always intrigued by old vehicles found deep in forests. I have heard a story about the famous car remnants on Middle Prong. I suspect it's not the true story but it's a good one. I would love to know the story of these old cars.

      After more ups and downs, I found found myself back at the trailhead ready for a celebratory iced coffee.

   The fire towers are a legacy of the bygone era and many of them are now just gone. Others are closed or endangered due to lack of maintenance. Rich Mountain fire tower was recently renovated after a closure through a collaboration of the AT conservancy and USFS. To learn more about the fire towers of the region, you can read Hiking North Carolina's Lookout Towers by Peter Barr.

    

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