I like thematic hikes and I've led this hike with my hiking group for Valentines Day. That was my plan this year but the weekend was a washout and parts of the Pump Gap Trail tend to be muddy during the best of times. So, on a gray post-winter, not-quite-spring day I parked in the Silvermine Trailhead to complete a longer version of a popular loop. My course would incorporate parts of the Appalachian Trail, Pump Gap Loop Trail, and Silvermine Road to make a sweet 6.5 mile loop.
During the course of 2,190 miles the Appalachian trail runs through a few towns which provide respite and restocking opportunities for through hikers (people who hike the entire length). The AT goes right down Main Street of the small town of Hot Springs, NC. Native Americans had first enjoyed the thermal mineral springs here. White settlers began arriving as early as 1775 to what was then known as Warm Springs. A grand hotel was build in the 1830s to accommodate the tourists who could now reach it easier due to the new Buncombe Turnpike. Eventually, another spring with a higher temperature was found and the town became Hot Springs. In addition to a spa that utilizes the namesake springs, Hot Springs is a haven for hikers, campers and backpackers, as well as rafters and kayakers that enjoy the French Broad River the town is situated on.
The hike begins just on the other side of the river from the historic downtown. The AT runs along the banks of the French Broad river with rocky cliffs on the other side. After a short distance, the path begins to climb steeply. At this point I encountered a family of 8 through hikers including young teens and a dog. They had begun their journey on February 14 so I found my Valentine connection on the hike after all.
The AT at this point runs along a ridge above the river. Opportunities for views are abundant with many breaks in the trees and several rocky pinnacles, the most dramatic being a jutting ragged vein known as Lover's Leap. Alas, since my last visit, a solar farm was developed outside Hot Springs which intrudes upon the view. It made me appreciate how important the work of agencies like the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy that acquire land to protect views from the Blue Ridge Parkway and Appalachian trail, among others. I did not go out to the very end this time since there was no one hiking with me to report my body to search and rescue if I fell.
Eventually, the AT begins to turn away from the river and crosses the first part of the Pump Gap Loop Trail. This can be used along with The Lover's Leap Trail which comes up from the trail head for a much shorter loop. I continued on to the second side of the Pump Gap Loop where I turned right to begin the descent. Immediately on the right of the trail you will find a small graveyard--likely a family plot--that has only one gravestone able to still be read.
The trail heads steadily down hill from here, eventually running along a cascading creek branch that feeds into Silver Mine Creek. As the trail levels out, it crosses Silver Mine Creek several times before coming to the remnants of the mine that gave it it's name. It is common to come across mines in National Forests in this area. Mica, silver, lead, copper were among the many minerals sought in the mountains. While most traces of the operations may be gone, the most sturdy structures remain: the storage buildings for the explosives.
After a short trek through a closed picnic area, my journey is completed. And I am ready for an iced coffee in a quaint shop in Hot Springs.
