Compared to nearby Pisgah National Forest, Nantahala National Forest is rugged and desolate. With the exception of the well-known roadside waterfalls, it is a good place to get away from the crowds. The sections to the north of Pathertown Valley are devoid of named and maintained trails; they are criss-crossed with a maze of old logging road remnants and side trails that can lead a novice to easily get lost. The few visitors are usually the die-hard waterfallers hunting the holy grails like Bernie's Falls, Rhapsody Falls, Dismal Falls and the stunning Flat Creek Falls.
Both of the falls I visited on this hike are on the same creek and use the same trailhead (Flat Creek Falls can also be accessed via trail from Bear Creek Lake if you are a kayaker), beyond that they are as different as night and day. The hikes begin by crossing Flat Creek either on old logs high above the creek or by walking right through it--which is of course what I did. If you are concerned about getting your feet wet, waterfalling might not be your cup of tea. A few short stretches of unmarked trail through classic rhododendron tunnels brings you to the creek and the small cascade shown at top of post. You can make out Nellie's falls a short distance behind which is why it is also known as Hidden Falls. Crossing the creek, you take a slight trail that circles the back of the rock the cascade cuts through and come out to smooth rock with Nellie's falls immediately in front of you. There is a rocky island just past the small splash pool at the base. A wide angle lens would be helpful as all vantage points to falls are close-in. Nellie's falls is a delightful 25 foot beauty that is a nice spot to sit and relax or meditate.
To reach Flat Creek Falls, you return to where you initially crossed the creek from the parking area and head off in roughly the opposite direction. There are many confusing intersections and turns so be certain to have good directions, a topo map and navigation skills to reach this. As you get close there is flagging tape to help you but there are other spots with flagging tape for different reasons so don't count on that for a guide. A relatively easy two miles of hiking will bring you to the top of the falls. The upper portion is not visible from below so this is a good starting point. There is a nice initial drop before a long cascade down smooth rock leading to the plunge that marks the middle section of the falls. This area is quite dangerous as it is slick rock. Since I didn't want my wife to be a widow, I was circumspect in the pictures I took.
Once you have seen the top, backtrack up the trail about 1/4 mile to find a faint goat trail off to the right to take you down. It is well marked with orange flagging tape but not a professionally designed trail. It is mostly straight and steep down the hillside with little switchback or angling. And on this day it was quite slick from recent rains. Eventually this trail ends at that official trail that comes from Bear Creek Lake. Turning right, you reach Flat Creek below a bit below the falls and have to cross a side channel and the main creek several times to reach an are with boulders where you get your first glimpse of the bottom section of falls. It felt like a "Dr. Livingston, I presume moment" but was just a tease for the big reveal.
At this point, the trail has ceased and you rock hop and climb boulders until you reach larger boulders at the base which provide the perfect lunch spot and vantage point. The falls are a total of 200 feet but the top section shown earlier is not visible from here. Regardless, this waterfall overwhelms you with it's size, varied levels, and sheer power. Various sections would be major attractions unto themselves if they were roadside or easily accessed. For me, the adventure of getting here and the solitude was a palpable sensation that I don't get with a view of Whitewater Falls with a jostling bunch of tourists trying to get selfies from a viewing platform.
One of the pleasures of hiking in Western North Carolina is the changing tableau of wildflowers that you encounter throughout spring and summer. Along the way I was treated to some Turks Cap Lilies, Bee Balm (Scarlet and Wild), Fireweed, and waves of Black-Eyed Susans. I also spotted three deer but they were too quick for my slow camera reflex.
