The Chattooga River is a designated Wild and Scenic River. The areas I've explored on the border of Georgia and South Carolina are quite wild, with challenging rapids for whitewater rafters and kayakers. I decided it was time to visit the headwaters section in North Carolina that runs through Nantahala National Forest. The Chattooga Cliffside trail runs 5.2 miles just south of Cashiers where the river originates. I found the early stages of this river to be quite scenic, but more mild. It is shallow with sandy beaches and only occasional small cascades.
As usual, I got an early start to this hike at the Whiteside Cove Road trailhead. The setting Hunter's moon and Whiteside Mountain were to my back and the low, early morning sun was to my face. I took a moment to just close my eyes and breathe in deeply, connecting with the smells, the aura, the solitude and feeling of this wonderful fall morning. The beginning of the hike is wooded and far from the river. After a quarter mile, I was moving along a ridge that formed one side of a gorge area where water--from the Chattooga and it's tributary Green Creek--could be heard from below. The trail turns right, back away from the water. Just short of a mile the Green Creek Trail heads down to the left and the trail I was following began a one mile descent to the river. After being tantalized by the sounds of the river and occasional glimpses, I reached the water's level and a small cascade welcomed me.
The trail continues close along the river for the next half mile. The water is crystal clear, running over a smooth, mostly sandy bottom. Rhododendrons lining it promise lots of color in late spring. At 2.7 miles, the rough half-way mark of this section, the trail crosses Norton Mill Creek at a true sweet spot on the hike. I walked down to the intersection of the creek with Chattooga river and viewed a cascading "delta" over rocks that led from the bridge to the river. On the creek side of the bridge, a small falls ends in a beautiful pool.
After this first crossing, the trail moves up and a bit away from the river. There are several more bridges crossing tributaries and smaller spring cascades. The next time the trail nears the river is perhaps the sketchiest section: large exposed slanting rocks along the river have spring fed water running down them and the trail crosses over this. While not life threatening perhaps, a slip here could cost you your dignity. It is very scenic, though. Shortly after this, the trail goes under a huge rock overhang. Half a mile later I arrived at the Iron Bridge, a popular local iconic spot and southern terminus of this section of trail. Here, the most significant cascade so far of the young river can be found flowing under the bridge.
For my return trip, I walked up Bullpen Road a quarter mile to reach the loop trail that goes back to meet the river trail. Ammons Branch runs below the road and I could hear persistent cascades but could not see anything through the Rhododendron. This small upper loop section likely does not get much use and could use some trail maintenance. I like to explore to see what can be seen but I found there wasn't much on this trail. Heading back up the river, I got to enjoy sights that had been hidden on my trip down. The low, early sun left the far bank in shadow. On the return trip I was rewarded with the sights of Bullpen Mountain on the opposite bank.
On my trip down, I had gone under a huge tree that had a note stuck on a tiny branch saying "last blowdown." It seemed odd and was obviously recent. On the return trip, I heard the sounds of chainsaws ahead and realized someone had been marking it for trail maintenance. I thanked the two men hard at work as I passed them. Reaching the trailhead, I found that my out and back with the small lollipop loop was 11 miles with 1,134 elevation gain. An outstanding day!
I considered why poets, philosophers and musicians so often equate rivers with life. There are obvious parallels. Both rivers and our lives start small, grow and change, and eventually end. And yet, the essence of a river--the water--was there before the river and continues long after it leaves. The river was just the vessel for the water's journey. And so it is with us: our bodies are just vessels for our journey through this life. If one want's to get scientific, the human body is 60% water so we certainly are like rivers. But for me, spirit cannot be scientifically quantified. Simply enjoyed.